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264-267 J / Coffee trees at the foot of the volcano

The final destination of our bus is San Jose, Costa Rica, so we asked the driver to drop us off the road at the fork in the road Boquete. No problem. Around 5am we were awakened by the colleague of the driver who announces that they have forgotten to drop. Awesome. They will land on the edge of the road and told us to cross and wait for a bus. We wonder if we are not already on the border with Costa Rica because there is what appears to be a border post. Besides, a man who seems to be a customs asked for our papers. A bus arrives and we are rushing to get to the other side of the road to stop it. It is still dark and the passengers are people who go to work. We learn that the first bus to Boquete is at 6:30 so we decided to go to the terminal at David, it will be better than to wait in the dark on the roadside, and for some snaps raining and more. We will put more than one hour to David which confirms our doubts over the border. We will not have long to wait, a big yellow bus American Blue Bird is leaving to Boquete. The time it fills up and go. Still an hour away and we here in Boquete, a town near the volcano, whose summit, moreover it is possible to see in clear weather from the Pacific Ocean on one side and the other the Caribbean Sea . We need to find a hotel and the guide indicates a cool down in the village beside the River. We take the road when we stopped by a lady who says she has rooms available in his hotel, that's good is precisely the one we wanted. She was en route to taking the bus to David and told us that the keys of the shop is hidden in the flower pot and we install. In fact it looks more like a small house with a lounge and a kitchen and two bedrooms with bathrooms. We choose one and then ask our large bags. Indeed the river flowing in front and there is a mini garden to enjoy it. A quick shower and getting ready rapido a coffee because it will be time to find Kalin and Jason. They are as expected at their hotel, waiting for us, we have just enough time to discuss before the tour guide for the Coffee arrives. She is Dutch, and like many foreigners settled in the area some years ago. The climate and beauty of the area attracts more and more people, many Americans who spend their retirement in this quiet corner. On the road we had seen signs announcing the construction of new homes and all were in English, it is clear that it is not for Panamanians. We got into the 4X4 which takes us a coffee plantation. The guide explains that with her husband they too have a plantation but it takes its customers that of her friend because she is larger and especially it has all the machines that help explain the process. Arrived on site we expect three Americans who will follow the tour with us. It will last three hours and despite the fact that this is not our first Coffe e Tour we have learned many things, the process is not quite the same in all countries. The owner retains all the machinery of his grandfather who started the operation and used by then and still functioning. They are in their original location in a small wooden house and it's interesting to see how this has evolved. We conclude with a tasting of coffees that have undergone different types of roasting, light, medium and dark or French! Then comes the part "and now you're well buy one or two packets of coffee? . Since we are only interested in green coffee which keeps better and they do not it will not be for us. By cons we acquire a large bag coffee to keep company with the one we brought back from Brazil.

We return to the village and spend the afternoon we walk together, especially in a private garden open to the public, drink a coffee on the terrace (where smoking is prohibited) and we find our coffee roasting plant in a way. We eat together and we say goodbye again, Kalin and Jason are leaving tomorrow morning to Bocas del Toro on the north coast and we stay an extra day to explore the area.
The next day we go to market to buy some fruits and vegetables and we leave on the paths. First we follow the paved road and when a small way to this we borrow. We walk along a beautiful river for a while, we stopped under a tree for a picnic and then arrive in a very dense forest on a hill. The scenery and lights are beautiful and it does us good to find ourselves in nature after a few days in Panama City.
The next day we left already. We get up at dawn to catch a bus to David and we know that there are departures from San José, the capital of Costa Rica. It will take us several hours of travel, with a border crossing and arriving late in the day. We actually arrived around 19h in San Jose and we have to change terminal. In fact there is no terminal comprising all companies but small private terminals for each company, obviously they are scattered in the city. We counted follow up with a bus to Nicaragua since we do not intend to stay in Costa Rica, but there is no night bus, the next is tomorrow morning at 8am. We buy our ticket we pay for the entire journey while we stopped long before, in a small city near Lake Nicaragua where we can take a boat to Isla Ometepe, our next destination. We're looking for a hotel in the area and land in the "Small Hotel", an institution whose former owner was French. We see immediately that the standard of living here is still more expensive than in Panama. The price of the bedroom is close to those found in Europe. The neighborhood is not full of hotels, it's late, so we negotiate the price a bit and we moved. We dine out and go back to bed quickly, one is KO and say that ultimately it is not so bad we do not travel that night. Tomorrow we must get up early to have breakfast before going to the terminal which requests arrive one hour before departure of the bus! Worse than flying.

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260-263 J / J Sin City

Here we disembarked the bus in downtown Panama City. We take a taxi to be laid in the district in which, according to the guide, are the hotels cheap, and we split up temporarily our fellow travelers. We will in some hotels but the prices are far beyond what we thought. We ask people on the street who tell us another neighborhood, one where the bus had deposited us earlier! We took a taxi to nothing and then retrace our path to walk but because ultimately it's not that far and that taxis are not given here. The currency of Panama is the Balboa (Rocky but obviously not the English conquistador who claimed to have discovered the Pacific Ocean) but it is pegged to the dollar and hit prices in dollars, tickets are U.S. $ the same as in the U.S. and few parts are balboas, when this is not a hundred dollars ... Fortunately the prices are somewhat lower than in the United States but we feel that it approximates more and more. Besides, there are fast food everywhere and you can not smoke anywhere, if it is not proof. In short we change the neighborhood and found a room with a real window on a true outside, which is hardly the case in all hotels, air conditioning, a bed and a private bathroom for a reasonable price. It was time, it starts raining ropes of the city. After a good shower which property Crazy, the first six days (no shower on the boat and the salt water can wash it but it's still not the same thing) the rain stopped and we do a short tour and a bite . We must also find the internet to see if others have sent an email to inform us of where we can find them. Not much in the neighborhood and shame on us, we go to McDonalds. In France we never goes (I swear it's true and yet there is one close to home) and then I do not know what took us for the first time in more than eight month, we choose junk food. As might be expected that not great and it stays on the stomach. We'll walk a little to get it all and at the corner of a street we fall on Kalin and Jason who also found a hotel in the neighborhood. We will all send an email to Slava and Erik who are the ones on the other side of town to tell them that they are back to their hotel and take a taxi to four the price is much more reasonable-to join them. The driver told us not to walk around the city at night, we talk about guns and thieves, atmosphere. It will not be the only person to tell us to be careful not to go in a particular neighborhood because it's dangerous. Even police bikes have warned. All this does not help us to feel, well, safe ... Of all the cities we visited, this is the first time we do not feel at ease and we are on our guard. Once we've found Erik Slava and we will still walk around the neighborhood to find a place for dinner, should not become paranoid, and it is seven, five guys, there must be easier for a target of any thugs. After that we find a nice and trendy place, good music and pleasant with an art gallery but not for other clients that we drink a few beers. A nice first evening with our five other buddies on the boat.
The next day we will see the only point of interest in the city, the Panama Canal. He crossed the Isthmus of Panama about 80 km to connect the Pacific Ocean to the Atlantic Ocean. Each year 14 000 boats and borrow the road widening project is underway to allow the passage of bigger vessels, which undoubtedly will cause environmental damage. In Panama City, one can see the boats pass through locks at Miraflores and is therefore that we set an appointment. The passage of boats observed a large terrace. From here we can see huge ships queuing at the entrance to the lock. One of them is in the process of happening is very impressive. Actually widening is needed, there is no more than one meter between the boat and the canal at this place. Small tow the cargo trains to guide him in the canal and passing the various pools that can raise the vessel and to pass the lock. We remain there a good time watching these behemoths move slowly out to sea and finally we just had time to visit the museum that explains the construction of the canal. The idea goes back to the early 16th century the first attempt at construction began in 1880 by the French and the Americans who are the end. The canal opened in 1914. Nearly 28,000 workers died during construction, including malaria, yellow fever or accidents. We will not have time to learn a lot more, time is the time and we are put out by the guards. We're back in the center, each with its program for us will be the last "Indiana Jones" with Kalin and Jason in the modern buildings bristling.
We spend another two days in Panama City. We will also send a large package to France with all things heavy and bulky purchased way. Gradually the group dissolves. Kalin and Jason go first.
We spent an afternoon walking around the city. This is not happy, some neighborhoods seem in a state of disrepair. Crumbling walls, abandoned buildings, dirty streets ... We had already crossed the unwelcoming cities but usually there is always a lively and pretty, but nothing here. We decide to go to the hotel and Erik Slava see if they are there. The next day they both go, Slava Erick Cuba and we do not know too much, besides maybe it either has not thought too. One last evening together drinking shots on the bench in a public park and watching people and end up in the trendy bar of the first night but this time it is full. We said goodbye, we kiss and we wish good luck for the future. For us, the next step is Boquete, a town at the foot of a volcano and where coffee plantations. We will again have to spend the night in a bus, he left for 23 hours. We spend our last day in an internet cafe, that's good it's raining, and we take this opportunity to write a bit for the blog. Just before leaving for the bus station we received an email from Kalin and Jason who just arrived in Boquete when it was not what they expected. They tell us that the next day at 9am they will make a coffee tour and if we're interested there is room for us. We did not find them so quickly and of course we said yes to the coffee round, even if it leaves us just time to put our bags at the hotel and maybe take a shower. But it's the world tour of coffee or?
We take a taxi to the bus station which is often as eccentric. The bus leaves only three hours, it will not be easy to handle. The station is large and well lit but there is not much. We leave our big bags in the offices of the company, this will easier to pull the clog. A shopping center is just opposite and we go in telling us that maybe there ... We go around to find where we're going to eat a piece, not easy to choose between fast food and ... fast food. We settle in a small pizzeria in the hope that they do not serve us too soon. Despite this we do not spend more than an hour, which we made two more to occupy. And if it was still around the mall? Meanwhile almost all shops were closed. No luck. But what's that light over there? Let's go. An ice vendor, buy a small ice. We eat across the aisles This dark mall dragging its feet for the maids clean behind us and a little music accompanies us much kitsch. Rather murky and it has not spent more than half an hour ... We decide that we asse z explored the place and we drop in the waiting room awaiting the arrival of the bus that we hope will not be too rotten. He finally arrived and pleasant surprise it is brand new. By cons it is too early to shop there. We light a cigarette for small and wait two minutes after the driver tells us that we'd better turn it off if a cop goes by that he could stop us. What? But we're out! Well yes, but here it is forbidden to smoke even outdoors. Besides, it's true that we had seen posters in front of some stores prohibiting smoking within 50 meters when it is the street! Not cool, at least it crushes, we sit on our bags and were waiting thirty minutes.

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254-259 / One Dollar

The sea is calm, the sky is clear. Too little wind swells the sail, not enough for the captain cuts the engine. Cartagena gradually disappears. We spend the last buoys. The sun approaches the horizon. When finally the sun touches the sea and the sky ignites us in the open sea We are no longer a small nutshell lost in the vastness of the Caribbean water. At the request of Captain Marco, Lae titia organizes the quarterfinals, they will be of two hours each. Laetitia is the first of tomorrow morning from 6 to 8, the mine just before 4 to 6. After a small snack that will make us marine offshore and the time to admire the stars, the whole world share sleep except the one who must ensure his shift. With Laetitia, we sleep in steerage, it is not big enough to lie down completely, but less noisy than the cabin adjacent to the engine and cooler than the bow. Marco Morgan and the two Colombian sleep on deck. At four o'clock Eric comes to wake me, I put a little time to emerge, I take the bar and tries to stay the course to 320 degrees. A m ain asked e No mark on the bar you can correct the course as and when the waves or wind pushing the boat in one direction or another. Little by little the sky cleared, the stars go out one after the other, light waves lapping up to greet his majesty. It is expected e, but we guess its light below the horizon. Clouds come veil her splendor, and I should wait a few minutes that his majesty deigns to remove his last sail before illuminating the immensity of the sea and launder the mainsail. Side breeze, sun in the back, heading for Panama. It's 6 o'clock, the darkness of last night have disappeared, Laetitia goes to the bar and stays the course to 320.
breeze, humming engine, light waves, the hours pass, the captain puts the beer and we left the bar carefully. Every two hours a new foam takes over. This insignificant thing that we're in the middle of the ocean continued its course due west until the sunset and celebrate the sun dip into the Caribbean Sea are preparing a series of tightly compressed rums. All crew members get along well and it's a good thing in a small space. A another night under the stars and the next day at dawn the gulls we announce that the earth is farther from Panama. Captain Marco confirms q ue in three short hours we will enter into the turquoise waters of the archipelago of San Blas. Two hours more and we see the silhouette of a first islands, slight change of course. The palm trees are starting to take shape, the water goes from blue to turquoise. Some dolphins curia ux come to escort us into the calm waters of the archipelago. We throw the anchor, bow our mainsail and dives one after the other in the clear water and calm of San Blas. A few minutes later the canoes come ashore for us to sell us freshly caught fish and lobsters for a very low price. We leave for one of three main islands. An island, a friend of Marco shows us around the island and explained that this archipelago as it can maintain its autonomy from IS v Panama, the government of semi-independent Kuna people of San Blas Islands prohibits hotel construction their territory and only the yachts can anchor in their waters. Small houses, each with a palm access to the sea Children playing basketball on the square, a grocery store with little to sell, a few stalls for souvenirs. Back in the house of our host, we prepare a few punches until the end of Marco's friends prepare the evening meal. Night falls on the islands and finally the food arrived, unfortunately the lack of light prevents us from seeing the contents of our plates. But the mouth and taste all the equipment we felt that the fish are delicious, the rice is not cooked, the lobster prepared by Marco still require some minutes before reaching the required melt. For lobsters of the ECOND batch will be good by cons for rice will be worse than the first image of cooks who are becoming pl attacked us rum and marijuana. In light of the moon we join the boat.

following days: white sand beach, coconut mounted, snorkeling to watch the colorful fish, starfish, octopus ... We take even one more day to spend quality time with the absence of customs to deliver us our entry visa. Funny islands that make up this wonderful archipelago. Among the Kuna, the area's residents negotiate everything for a dollar. You want to photograph them is a dollar the Kuna, you want to visit an island a dollar a head, you want to pick a coconut is a dollar more, you want to drink like a coke ... the list is long and sometimes surprising. Once again we see that it is women who are the guardians of tradition, it is always they who are in traditional costumes while men prefer thongs, shorts, T-shirts, rum and cigarettes .. .
After three days of this we are ready to go back to Porto Bello and join Morgan the boy who left us yesterday. The wind has not returned yet and we're going to continue to the engine, what sadness is all the more unfortunate that Marco noticed a fishing line was wrapped around the propeller and ended up twisting the bar connecting to the engine. We'll have to take on low speed, hoping that the wind will inflate our sail. It will not be the case, it faseillera the route. We will almost eight hours before reaching their destination, while Morgan has made him one hour aboard a motorboat. We have still spent 6 days in all on this ship, including three to navigate.
Marco offers to host us with him being given the late hour of our landing. Everyone agrees. Marco load the truck. With the Russian Slava, Eric U.S. we are in the dumpster smell the fresh air and enjoy the wooded hills of Panama. Marco arrived at the two Colombian find their brother who was exiled a few months ago to escape the British, the cam and try to rebuild his life away from the crack of his father and junky. We find a house where a live bird of prey, a spider monkey and a friendly Rotweller. We take the evening to visit the village, old trading town at the time of English colonization. We visit the fort that was built to counter Frequent pirate attacks in this time next là.Le Marco us off at an ATM to retrieve his last dollars. We take a taxi to the bus terminal Eric Colon, others are deposited by Marco. Goodbye fast. The neighborhood is rotten and badly attended, luckily the bus leaves promptly to Panama City.