Night Flight. An hour and a half 500 km above the largest and most pr IMAIR forest the world to reach Iquitos. The Amazon from the sky we will not see anything. Uneventful landing. We recover our business on the treadmill that works somehow and leave the small airport. Ivan is waiting for us, it has changed a bit since the last time we saw in Puno, he went to the barber and had to lose a kilo of good hair. Hardly time to greet us as we already have several proposals for different taxis to take us to downtown. While our first cigarette smoking in Amazon land, we move naturally to the taxi which the air as sympathiq hat, woman, plump and smiling. During the journey we tell the two weeks is that we have spent on our own. Ivan shamanic experiences and for us our visit to Machu Pichu e- t lift our chaotic to get here. The story of Ivan is évidemme nt psychic tendencies and our much more physical cal. The taxi deposited us Plaza de Armas. All Peruvian cities worthy of the name pos sedentary in the center of the city and c ike main square, a Plaza de Armas, Iquitos is no exception. Ivan being there for a few days, he rented a room in a small hotel in the center. An entry a bit dark cluttered with various skins, crocodile, leopard, skulls but large colorful parrot gives "OLAAAA" to those who pass the entrance. Not in high season s new can talk a little price. Our room es t superb, spacious and ventilated, and with this heat is a luxury, all-wood, we can access it through a series of short stop rs. If we were not in town, we would have the feeling of being at the heart of the jungle. To continue our immersion in a medium Scots Ivan took us to a restaurant, entirely of wood, chairs, tables, walls. The space is large and airy, the waitresses are charming and smiling, Italian cuisine is made the wine a bit much, but what was needed for a reunion. As Iva 
n will be there this will be our ca Ntini, Ivan left us change as well as the location is ideal, the prices are high. Everything is paid in c e world. The street our hotel is located directly on the e main public writers on their old machine will spend the day, the shady side of the street, waiting the client to write letters probably more administrative than sentimental. One of them is passionate about chess, the two ttres he crosses swords with passersby. The chessboard is its ns doubt as old as his machine, and I will n'o not imagine the number of letters and parts that were written and played on c e the sidewalk. We are in week its inte ev idement then when we go s Church near the main square to get to the market in Belem, it is full to bursting. The market also is p lein to crack, if the church nurtured the spirit of spiritual food, n'oublio ns that man is flesh and that the material is important for survival in this world he created every day and sometimes you could say that this world is hostile. The market and the Belem district are a good example. First the market. Immense, lively, noisy, colorful, exotic ... utterly charmed nt at first glance. But beneath this veneer is that it? Mangy dogs that roam the aisles looking for any scraps of food, aisles full of mud and detritus, stalls selling meats are often more blue than red. Pickpockets, one of them even wanted to practice his art on the bag Laetitia, happy men Does she realized this and he spun quickly without asking his remains; kids for ve NDRE confectionery or you shine in. 
mpes for pennies. I obviously grown since the line there are also beautiful x stalls with beautiful fruits and vegetables, beautiful pair of sneakers that feel the counterfeiting of electrical equipment last generation. In this market there is also a section dedicated to the magic, we see all ingréd ient essential for shamanistic ceremonies, plants hallucinated ogen, don t the famous ayahuasca, seeds, tortoise shell ... short everything you need for the perfect shaman. This incredible market adjoins the district of the same n o m. Belem is the Venice of the poor, it is built on the banks of the Amazon. He suffers flood, during the rainy season is running a boat or on roads built with stilts while v Enanta, boards, trunks. This gives a 
kind of chaotic path where people walk the neighborhood with ease but for the q ui do not know the movement is much more difficult. The houses are like roads, con structed with equipment that n o easily imagine re Cuper, c ouv ressure the inevitable jail roof. Pe nIn t the rainy season this table may seem almost charming, but dry season when water is gone and only the houses remain the middle of mud, I think the atmosphere is different. We finish our walk dan s neighborhood overlooking a purlin tier; we spend the afternoon talking, play a game of soc IETE drinking cheap beers. In this city arc hitecture boring, the only interesting architectural feature is the Azulejos, mo saïques English and Portuguese origins. They decorated the homes of hours glories of the city, when money flowed it afloat through Export of rubber flowing through the veins of rubber trees that grow naturally in the forest. But the difficult operating these trees, and the local people ended when the English vo sullen seeds of this green gold to start operating on an industrial scale in Malaysia. After that the city experienced a recession that ended with the birth of mass tourism and logging to Europe, America and Today it is a 
i to Asia in particular, new predator Resources land. The forest of Iquitos we will not see much, we will take a canoe ride on two tributaries of the Amazon, Nanay and Momon. All the rivers of the Amazon shelf are calm and majestic, flowing like the anaconda in the lush vegetation clinging to the trees, swaying on th floor, creeping among the roots . Our young guide, we want emmen st in some villages with Indian trinkets, we politely decline about ition and opt for a small animal park where we can see sloths, a turtle which probably served as a model for future gener ations so its barry seems to come of age when nature was not yet an accomplished artist. N ou will also see anacondas, birds and mischievous monkeys. A few days later we return to this branch of the river for visit a butterfly farm run by an Australian. By dint of patience and knowledge of plants on which caterpillars feed, she managed to collect a few butterflies flying in a huge cage in the middle of lush plants. Some of these papillo ns reach respectable size of two hands, one beside the other. Besides the butterflies found a tapir, a leopard and a swarm it had to collect, as often happens when tourists gullible and stupid to buy 
animals are greedy sellers and few scrupulous and from that moment eventually abandoned in the hotel where they stayed or shelter. C e is which happens years our hotel, where two young people have bought a monkey p MALL market of Belem, history of having a pet during their stay Amazon. We will find this baby monkey tied to a pole and they doubt its ns already in the plane direction Europe. The days follow one another and just one or Ivan has to leave to head back to Lima. Directio nl'Antica our HQ gourmet starter, main course and dessert. The next day we accompany Ivan to the airport, a last cigarette on the porch, he passes the gate electronics and we are back solo. It is in these moments we can realize our commitment to our friendship and although this makes friends again and to tell stories that we share, to imagine projects wacky, to stupid stories, make bitter observations about the world, to say that our future is gray, but life still a 
great adventure and unique and it is our duty to fill the cup and drink to the dregs. We will spend another two days to walk the blocks of Iquitos before we embark on the " ancha" a flat-bottomed boat with two or three bridges that provides empty of Leticia, 500 km over the Amazon. We welcome our guests and we take a bus to the port. Buses incredible to ut wood and all of whose windows had been removed. On the port boats are next to each other like beached whales at low tide. We buy two hammocks, nets that we will take up less space in our bags but we will miss the first night practice, but not at all comfortable. N e then we pay on board to buy our tickets to the master and set up our hammocks on the upper deck. The first bridge and dock are reserved for the goods, the other two are for passengers. It is midnight, four hours behind the boat gently detached from the bank to go with the flow of the river to Santa Rosa, a small village next Peruvian triple border Brazil, Colombia, Peru . We will make d e many stops to load and Dec. oad men and goods, Maj o authority of the passengers were Peruvians, we are only four tourists, we, a German who is not at its first crossing and Argentina. The days are punctuated by meals are included in the price-, breakfast at 6:30, lunch st at 11:30 and dinner at 18h, before night falls. We were very shocked by how many passengers were getting rid of their Peruvian waste: by throwing them overboard in the Amazon, while the boat was equipped with larger bins. We will have two night s and them and half days to reach its destination and we will be happy to do that because mêm 
e if the patient ysage is beautiful with time he becomes monotonous, the country is flat and the middle of the river the forest is revealed barely. On board there is not much to do except read or sleep, and we regret even more the purchase of these hammocks nets that give us the impression of being big fish caught in the mesh. Only sunrise and sunset provide a dimming of the light this river poetry. Landed in Santa Rosa we bend customs formalities and we embark on a boat to join the famous group Leticia located across the river in Colombia.
great adventure and unique and it is our duty to fill the cup and drink to the dregs. We will spend another two days to walk the blocks of Iquitos before we embark on the " ancha" a flat-bottomed boat with two or three bridges that provides empty of Leticia, 500 km over the Amazon. We welcome our guests and we take a bus to the port. Buses incredible to ut wood and all of whose windows had been removed. On the port boats are next to each other like beached whales at low tide. We buy two hammocks, nets that we will take up less space in our bags but we will miss the first night practice, but not at all comfortable. N e then we pay on board to buy our tickets to the master and set up our hammocks on the upper deck. The first bridge and dock are reserved for the goods, the other two are for passengers. It is midnight, four hours behind the boat gently detached from the bank to go with the flow of the river to Santa Rosa, a small village next Peruvian triple border Brazil, Colombia, Peru . We will make d e many stops to load and Dec. oad men and goods, Maj o authority of the passengers were Peruvians, we are only four tourists, we, a German who is not at its first crossing and Argentina. The days are punctuated by meals are included in the price-, breakfast at 6:30, lunch st at 11:30 and dinner at 18h, before night falls. We were very shocked by how many passengers were getting rid of their Peruvian waste: by throwing them overboard in the Amazon, while the boat was equipped with larger bins. We will have two night s and them and half days to reach its destination and we will be happy to do that because mêm 
e if the patient ysage is beautiful with time he becomes monotonous, the country is flat and the middle of the river the forest is revealed barely. On board there is not much to do except read or sleep, and we regret even more the purchase of these hammocks nets that give us the impression of being big fish caught in the mesh. Only sunrise and sunset provide a dimming of the light this river poetry. Landed in Santa Rosa we bend customs formalities and we embark on a boat to join the famous group Leticia located across the river in Colombia. 
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